Most dog owners will notice any sudden or odd changes in their dogs normal behaviour but it is useful to know the specific symptoms to watch out for.
If you dog shows symptoms of excessive drinking, sudden loss of appetite, continual vomiting or diarrhoea, or unusual lethargy then these should be obvious enough to raise your concern.
Discharge from the eyes or inflamed eyes, a shallow or rapid breathing pattern or perhaps persistent coughing can all be signs of something serious.
Typically when a dog is sick or ill they will show a raised temperature, indicated by a hot, dry nose. If your dog has a high temperature or even a very low temperature you should seek professional advice from your veterinarian.
Do be aware that a dog's temperature will be raised after strenuous activity or excitement and will not therefore be a reliable indication to its health.
If you are unsure you can take your dogs temperature yourself and this is taken rectally with a suitable thermometer. A dogs normal resting temperature is 101.5F, although if your dog is a hairless breed their temperature could be one or two degrees higher.
To take your dogs temperature choose a time when your dog is calm. You will need to ensure your dog is firmly held to prevent them from sitting down onto the thermometer. Smear the thermometer with vaseline or suitable lubricant and insert it into your dogs rectum about an inch.
Any reading above 102.5F or any reading below 100F should be regarded with concern and veterinarian advice should be sought.
If you known or feel your dog is ill make sure you keep them calm and display a reassuring manner until you get them to the veterinarian. Dogs can be very sensitive to your tone of voice and will pick up any worry or anxiety in your voice and manner.
Understanding your dogs needs and keeping a watchful eye for symptoms of sickness and ill health will ensure you can take swift action and ensure you dog is cared for sooner than later.
2008年9月16日星期二
2008年9月4日星期四
Grus japonensis
These cranes have white bodies with black on the tips of their wings and necks. They are named because of the red circle on their heads, which is actually exposed skin. Males and females look alike. Red-crowned cranes have very long and pointy beaks and can weigh up to twenty pounds. Their wingspan can be as wide as eight feet and they can reach 5 feet in height. They are one of the world’s largest bird. Their basal metabolic rate is 31.4 cm^3 oxygen/hour.
Grus japonensis-Habitat
The red-crowned crane is a rather aquatic species among cranes. It inhabits both freshwater and saltwater wetlands and marshes as well as some rivers.
Grus japonensis-Ecology
In Russia and China, it breeds in grass, reed, and sedge marshes. In winter and on passage, it occurs in wetlands, including tidal flats, saltmarshes, rivers, wet grassland, saltpans and aquaculture ponds
for:http://www.birds-house.com
2008年8月28日星期四
Caring For Your Horse During The Winter
When you care for your horse, it is important to make preparations for the winter months. Horses need to be able to tolerate the cold weather and stay as healthy as possible. During the winter horses will have special needs which you as the owner will have to address. It is important to prepare for winter in advance.
Horses are naturally tolerant to cold weather. In fact, horses handle cold weather much better than hot weather. Despite this, there are some basic things owners will want to do to make sure their horses stay healthy. You will want to make sure the horse doesn't have any parasites, and has been immunized. The costs for doing these things will greatly pay off during the winter. The costs of feeding the horse will be lower.
You may also want to work with your vet in setting up a health plan for your horse. Preparing your horse for cold weather will help it lower the need to eat large amounts of food in order to maintain its weight. Your horse should never lose weight during the winter. Allowing your horse to gain a small amount of weight will help them during the winter months, as the extra fat will work as a cushion to provide the horse with energy when it becomes stressed. During the winter you will want to give your horse some extra calories.
The best protection for a horse during the winter is its natural winter coat. When it is allowed to grow, it will act as a natural heat blanket which will reduce the loss of heat that the horse experiences in cold environments. The coat is also slick and will brush off snow and ice. If you keep your horses outside, you will want to make sure their coats grow long before winter.
To check the condition of your horse, you will want to rub its ribs. A large winter coat can easily hide the fact the horse may be losing weight. Your horse should weigh enough that you are not able to see the ribs but can feel them when touching the horse. Your also want to feel the ears of the horse. Do they feel cold? If so, this is a sign that the horse is cold.
Like all animals which are warm-blooded, horses must maintain their body temperature in order to survive. It is important that they conserve heat during the winter, and as the owner you must make preparations to make sure they're healthy.
Horses are naturally tolerant to cold weather. In fact, horses handle cold weather much better than hot weather. Despite this, there are some basic things owners will want to do to make sure their horses stay healthy. You will want to make sure the horse doesn't have any parasites, and has been immunized. The costs for doing these things will greatly pay off during the winter. The costs of feeding the horse will be lower.
You may also want to work with your vet in setting up a health plan for your horse. Preparing your horse for cold weather will help it lower the need to eat large amounts of food in order to maintain its weight. Your horse should never lose weight during the winter. Allowing your horse to gain a small amount of weight will help them during the winter months, as the extra fat will work as a cushion to provide the horse with energy when it becomes stressed. During the winter you will want to give your horse some extra calories.
The best protection for a horse during the winter is its natural winter coat. When it is allowed to grow, it will act as a natural heat blanket which will reduce the loss of heat that the horse experiences in cold environments. The coat is also slick and will brush off snow and ice. If you keep your horses outside, you will want to make sure their coats grow long before winter.
To check the condition of your horse, you will want to rub its ribs. A large winter coat can easily hide the fact the horse may be losing weight. Your horse should weigh enough that you are not able to see the ribs but can feel them when touching the horse. Your also want to feel the ears of the horse. Do they feel cold? If so, this is a sign that the horse is cold.
Like all animals which are warm-blooded, horses must maintain their body temperature in order to survive. It is important that they conserve heat during the winter, and as the owner you must make preparations to make sure they're healthy.
2008年8月23日星期六
How To Regain Your Horseback Riding Confidence
Nothing diminishes anxiety faster than action. ~Walter Anderson
If you have lost your riding confidence for some reason or another, if thinking of riding, jumping, competing, loading your horse fills you with dread, think about Mr Anderson's words.
You need to do something about it.
And not just try to do something about it. "Try" is a word that should be used with great care. If you're like most people, when you "try" to do something, that means you are giving less than your full effort to it. If you're going to do something, just do it.
When you try to do shoulder-in, or attempt a jump, or try to load, it gets very confusing for your horse. Are we going to jump over this thing...or not? Does she want me to do shoulder-in... or not? Is she seriously expecting me to get onto this trailer?
That's not to say that you shouldn't proceed with caution or take the time to plan and prepare properly. This isn't about throwing all caution to the winds; it's about the intensity of energy you put forth when you decide to take action. Make up your mind. Merely trying is pointless. You either do, or you do not.
Regretfully, just because you put your full effort into something doesn't always mean that you will be successful. Do not allow this to put you off. Do not regard mistakes as failures, embrace them as learning opportunities. Sometimes you may need to do something dozens of times before you'll get the result you want. To succeed, you need to give everything you have got, every time. If you can't, take a break.
"Trying" is for those people who doubt their ability to do something. It means they would like a successful outcome but sincerely doubt they'll get one. When you start something with such a negative focus, it's no surprise it doesn't work out very well. Instead, make it your mission to simply do it - and do your best - whatever you are planning to do. If the outcome is less than you hoped for, do it again. Or do it differently. Don't waste time "trying" to do anything. It's a complete waste of your horse's attention span and energy.
Talking about taking action...most of us are great learners. We love to read, watch, listen to, and absorb new ideas like a sponge. We love exploring new techniques and ideas to better our riding, improve our relationship with our horse, master new riding skills, and so on. However, when we spend all of our time searching for that "latest, greatest" book or instructor or talented horse, nothing gets done. What we forget is that the most helpful material out there is only as valuable as our ability to put it into practice.
If we take even the most moderately helpful ideas and put them into action, we immediately reap the rewards. Rather than having a vague wisp of knowledge rattling around in our minds, we now have a solid addition to our riding progress. With each new book or video we buy, we can increase the value we receive from it by taking time to work with the techniques or ideas before moving on to something else.
Do yourself a favour: take action now. Don't wait until tomorrow. Don't fool yourself into believing that you have all the time in the world. Don't waste time trying. Don't waste time reading yet another book or watching yet another video.
Don't let another day go by without taking positive action. If you begin by taking even small but determined steps forward, you will gain confidence. Your horse will gain confidence. Your understanding of each other will deepen. Before long, you'll both grow to love the feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction you get from moving forward.
Action reduces anxiety. If you want to regain your riding confidence, be active.
So don't just sit there Go clean the tack.
If you have lost your riding confidence for some reason or another, if thinking of riding, jumping, competing, loading your horse fills you with dread, think about Mr Anderson's words.
You need to do something about it.
And not just try to do something about it. "Try" is a word that should be used with great care. If you're like most people, when you "try" to do something, that means you are giving less than your full effort to it. If you're going to do something, just do it.
When you try to do shoulder-in, or attempt a jump, or try to load, it gets very confusing for your horse. Are we going to jump over this thing...or not? Does she want me to do shoulder-in... or not? Is she seriously expecting me to get onto this trailer?
That's not to say that you shouldn't proceed with caution or take the time to plan and prepare properly. This isn't about throwing all caution to the winds; it's about the intensity of energy you put forth when you decide to take action. Make up your mind. Merely trying is pointless. You either do, or you do not.
Regretfully, just because you put your full effort into something doesn't always mean that you will be successful. Do not allow this to put you off. Do not regard mistakes as failures, embrace them as learning opportunities. Sometimes you may need to do something dozens of times before you'll get the result you want. To succeed, you need to give everything you have got, every time. If you can't, take a break.
"Trying" is for those people who doubt their ability to do something. It means they would like a successful outcome but sincerely doubt they'll get one. When you start something with such a negative focus, it's no surprise it doesn't work out very well. Instead, make it your mission to simply do it - and do your best - whatever you are planning to do. If the outcome is less than you hoped for, do it again. Or do it differently. Don't waste time "trying" to do anything. It's a complete waste of your horse's attention span and energy.
Talking about taking action...most of us are great learners. We love to read, watch, listen to, and absorb new ideas like a sponge. We love exploring new techniques and ideas to better our riding, improve our relationship with our horse, master new riding skills, and so on. However, when we spend all of our time searching for that "latest, greatest" book or instructor or talented horse, nothing gets done. What we forget is that the most helpful material out there is only as valuable as our ability to put it into practice.
If we take even the most moderately helpful ideas and put them into action, we immediately reap the rewards. Rather than having a vague wisp of knowledge rattling around in our minds, we now have a solid addition to our riding progress. With each new book or video we buy, we can increase the value we receive from it by taking time to work with the techniques or ideas before moving on to something else.
Do yourself a favour: take action now. Don't wait until tomorrow. Don't fool yourself into believing that you have all the time in the world. Don't waste time trying. Don't waste time reading yet another book or watching yet another video.
Don't let another day go by without taking positive action. If you begin by taking even small but determined steps forward, you will gain confidence. Your horse will gain confidence. Your understanding of each other will deepen. Before long, you'll both grow to love the feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction you get from moving forward.
Action reduces anxiety. If you want to regain your riding confidence, be active.
So don't just sit there Go clean the tack.
2008年8月14日星期四
How to Solve Litterbox Problems in Multi-cat Homes
When we have only one cat and she misses the litterbox, it can be hard to fix. When we have more than one cat in the house, it can be even harder.
Here's a step-by-step guide to help stop litter box problems in a multi-cat home. first of all, act fast. A litter box problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. Litter box mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household.
Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.
Find the culprit. Before you even try to determine the "why," figure out the "who." If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory.
If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluoresce in for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.
Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many litter box problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause litterbox mistakes.
Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don't skip the trip to the vet.
Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It's always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his litter box mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem.
During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like litter boxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every litterbox mistake, then look for links.
Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.
Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you'll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to "reapply," clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat's sensitive nose.
Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren't standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area.
Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less "cat-friendly."
Make the current litter box more appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The litter box should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important.
This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won't be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.
Retrain the cats. If it doesn't seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself.
Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the litterbox.
Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box.
Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you've determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the litter box during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat's preference to the box.
General stress reduction. In some situations, it's difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes.
For litter box problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources.
Extra litter boxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches.
Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the litter box problem.
Litter box problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.
Here's a step-by-step guide to help stop litter box problems in a multi-cat home. first of all, act fast. A litter box problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. Litter box mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household.
Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.
Find the culprit. Before you even try to determine the "why," figure out the "who." If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory.
If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluoresce in for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.
Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many litter box problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause litterbox mistakes.
Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don't skip the trip to the vet.
Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It's always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his litter box mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem.
During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like litter boxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every litterbox mistake, then look for links.
Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.
Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you'll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to "reapply," clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat's sensitive nose.
Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren't standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area.
Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less "cat-friendly."
Make the current litter box more appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The litter box should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important.
This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won't be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.
Retrain the cats. If it doesn't seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself.
Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the litterbox.
Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box.
Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you've determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the litter box during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat's preference to the box.
General stress reduction. In some situations, it's difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes.
For litter box problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources.
Extra litter boxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches.
Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the litter box problem.
Litter box problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.
2008年8月9日星期六
Alternative Horse Therapy
Traditional veterinary medicine, much like in the human world, is often based on treating symptoms rather than the cause, or the underlying problem. Alternative horse therapies, on the other hand, are ancient forms of treatment that take a holistic approach to the whole body, mind, and spirit of the horse, to treat the underlying causes of problems manifesting in the body, and promote an overall sense of well being.
There are many types of alternative horse therapy treatments used to treat a large range of problems that your horse may be experiencing. It is recommended that alternative treatments be used regularly as a preventative treatment, rather than having to use them as a treatment after damage has been done. Below are some of the most commonly practiced alternative therapies for equine treatment, and well being.
Acupuncture
Acupuncture, as an alternative therapy, which uses tiny needles inserted into meridians, or certain parts of the horse body, to maintain the horses balance, as well as promote good overall health. The examination and treatment requires close observation of the horse to identify the points of the body that need the treatment.
Chiropractic Therapy
Chiropractic treatments also need close observation of the horse, after a close observation the horse body is then manipulated to improve the flexibility of the horses spine, and joints. Horse chiropractic therapy is much the same as human chiropractic therapy and can increase the performance of a horse by moving joints into place to assist with overall performance.
Body Work
Bodywork is the term used for massage therapy, which treats soreness in the horse muscles. Unlike chiropractic therapy; bodywork concentrates on the horses muscles, rather than joints. This therapy is used to promote efficient movement by taking away the soreness in the horse muscles.
Homeopathy
Using naturally occurring substances diluted down to minute particles are the basics of homeopathy medicine. This therapy is used for treating diseases in a horse body. Homeopathy is an ancient Chinese form of medicine, which has been used successfully with horses and humans alike to treat a large range of diseases, and illnesses. Homeopathy is usually used along with other alternative therapies, such as chiropractic, bodywork, and acupuncture.
Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy uses fragrances that can affect the mood of a horse, assist in healing, and promote a sense of wellness. Aromatherapy is often used alongside herbs in a horse diet, to reduce irritation of the digestive tract, for better overall health, and well being.
Other Physical Therapies
There are many physical therapies being introduced to treat pain in horse tissues, and bones. Some of these therapies are known as magnetic therapy, laser therapies, electrical stimulation, and ultrasound, and are often used by veterinarians.
In most cases, the horse body can heal itself without medicines, synthetic, or alternative. But when natural therapies are used, they provide quicker healing times, and a feeling of overall well being, which will put the horses body into the healing mode faster, and possibly reduce healing times considerably.
There are many types of alternative horse therapy treatments used to treat a large range of problems that your horse may be experiencing. It is recommended that alternative treatments be used regularly as a preventative treatment, rather than having to use them as a treatment after damage has been done. Below are some of the most commonly practiced alternative therapies for equine treatment, and well being.
Acupuncture
Acupuncture, as an alternative therapy, which uses tiny needles inserted into meridians, or certain parts of the horse body, to maintain the horses balance, as well as promote good overall health. The examination and treatment requires close observation of the horse to identify the points of the body that need the treatment.
Chiropractic Therapy
Chiropractic treatments also need close observation of the horse, after a close observation the horse body is then manipulated to improve the flexibility of the horses spine, and joints. Horse chiropractic therapy is much the same as human chiropractic therapy and can increase the performance of a horse by moving joints into place to assist with overall performance.
Body Work
Bodywork is the term used for massage therapy, which treats soreness in the horse muscles. Unlike chiropractic therapy; bodywork concentrates on the horses muscles, rather than joints. This therapy is used to promote efficient movement by taking away the soreness in the horse muscles.
Homeopathy
Using naturally occurring substances diluted down to minute particles are the basics of homeopathy medicine. This therapy is used for treating diseases in a horse body. Homeopathy is an ancient Chinese form of medicine, which has been used successfully with horses and humans alike to treat a large range of diseases, and illnesses. Homeopathy is usually used along with other alternative therapies, such as chiropractic, bodywork, and acupuncture.
Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy uses fragrances that can affect the mood of a horse, assist in healing, and promote a sense of wellness. Aromatherapy is often used alongside herbs in a horse diet, to reduce irritation of the digestive tract, for better overall health, and well being.
Other Physical Therapies
There are many physical therapies being introduced to treat pain in horse tissues, and bones. Some of these therapies are known as magnetic therapy, laser therapies, electrical stimulation, and ultrasound, and are often used by veterinarians.
In most cases, the horse body can heal itself without medicines, synthetic, or alternative. But when natural therapies are used, they provide quicker healing times, and a feeling of overall well being, which will put the horses body into the healing mode faster, and possibly reduce healing times considerably.
2008年8月3日星期日
Maine Coon Companion, Not Baby
If you are looking for a cat that goes great with children and dogs, is well known for its wonderful intelligence, outstanding disposition and loving nature, then you might want to consider getting a Maine Coon. The Maine Coon is the oldest natural breed of longhaired cat in North America and is regarded to be a native to the state of Maine, earning the illustrious title of State Cat. They are a particularly sturdy cat ideally suited to the varied seasons and the harsh winters in that region and are highly regarded as outstanding mousers. There are numerous legends that surround the Maine Coon and how it came into existence. One particular legend claimed that this cat was the product of mating between semi-wild domestic cats and raccoons. This came about because of the bushy tail and raccoon-like coloring, which indeed led to the name. Still another story was that Maine Coon actually started from six pet cats that were sent to Wiscasset, Maine by Marie Antoinette when she planned to escape France during the Revolution. The truth, as most breeders believe today, is that the breed probably sprang into existence as a result of mating between shorthaired domestic casts and longhair cats, possibly Angoras, which were brought to the United States by New England seamen and the Vikings. Unlike other cats that like to sit in your lap and pester you for attention, the Maine Coon usually won't. Though very people-oriented, they aren't the type of cat that will ever likely become overly dependent upon you. But they do enjoy hanging out with you, following you around the house and getting involved into whatever you happen to be doing, waiting for you by the door of a closed room until you emerge, and choosing to sit in the chair next to you. Maine Coons also like to play fetch with their owners. The Maine Coon has a coat that is different, too. It's longer in the britches, ruff and stomach, glossy and heavy, making it water-resistant to rain and snow, yet surprisingly shorter on the neck and back to protect it from tangling in the underbrush. Also surprising is the fact that even though the Maine Coon is longhaired, its coat is nearly maintenance-free. There's a Yankee myth that speaks of Maine Coons weighing thirty pounds, but it's just a myth. Usually the males average from thirteen to eighteen pounds and the females from nine to twelve. Another endearing quality of the Maine Coon is its large, round, tufted feet, which tend to act like snow shoes. Unlike most cats, Maine Coons are slow to develop and don't actually obtain their full size until they reach three to five years of age. They love to play and rarely meow. But their highly unusual soft, tiny voice can be heard as a distinctive, chirping trill, which they will use to entice their owners to play.
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